All the small print in regards to the celebration on:
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/element/ifsc/?perspective=event&WetId=8633

About IFSC:

The IFSC is a global non-governmental non-earnings group whose most vital targets are the course, regulation, advertising and marketing, enhancement and furtherance of climbing competitions all around the whole world.

Concerning the Channel:

The IFSC Channel – On this Channel you’ll be able to observe the three climbing disciplines: Velocity, Direct and Bouldering. Adjust to dwell streams, athlete interviews and celebration highlights dropped at you by the Intercontinental Federation of Sport Climbing!

Globe up…Retain climbing!

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Twitter: https://twitter.com/IFSClimbing
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/inte

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46 thoughts on “IFSC Climbing Globe Championships – Hachioji 2019 – Merged – Ladies Finals”

  1. IMO:
    They should base the speed ranking on their time not that tournament ranking stuff they've got going on
    They should add the scores, not multiply, winning one part shouldn't guarantee you a top-half score (as Miroslaw would have ranked lower on lead and boulder if there were more competitors)
    There should have been more than 2 climbable boulders

  2. I’m fine with speed climbing being a part of it (I guess) but the entire tournament ranking thing is actual bs, like if the 2nd fastesr climb goes up against the fastest in the first race, they’ll end up 5th at best, better would be to rank them by their time

  3. Despite the euphemisms and the pseudo-kind words from the commentators, it is obvious even to the untrained eye that Miroslaw is completely out of her depth in bouldering and lead.
    In contrast to the ethos of learning in vivo from your mistakes at this level of competition, she kept repeating the same errors over and over again. She may excel at speed climbing but has the skills of a hemiplegic oyster in the two other disciplines.

  4. Anyone knows what sort of grades the router setters set for the problems for competitions? And are they more or less the same grades averages through out the competition, or do the get progressively harder as they get to finals?

  5. First, I can't believe this scoring system is what is going to be adapted for the olympics and presented to the world. It doesn't make sense to only excel in one out of three discipline and still be able to beat out other competitors better in multiple disciplines. If that were the case, have the separate competitions. Combined should measure the ability to excel IN ALL THREE. This makes absolutely no sense. I understand they should also be strong in speed, but sole speed climbers as demonstrated by Aleksandra will always be outliers to the overall scores with this system

  6. This really exposes the combined format for what it is. A humiliation of the speed specialist who almost struggled to get off the ground in the real climbing disciplines, while jumbling the results in those same climbing disciplines. The format is a disgrace to the sport, and an insult to both speed climbers, lead climbers and boulderers.

    For those interested, here are the results for the real climbing disciplines (lead and bouldering), the potential 2024 format, assuming the same multiplication system:

    Janja 2
    Akiyo 3
    Shauna 12
    Ai 12
    Miho 24
    Futaba 30
    Petra 49
    Alexandra 64

  7. if we added instead of multiplied the scores we would have had this field:

    ….
    ….
    hiding for spoilers

    .
    …..

    …..
    …..

    1. Janja – 9 points
    2. Akiyo – 11 points
    3. Shauna – 12 points
    4. Miho – 13 points
    5. Ai Mori – 15
    6. Futaba – 15
    7. Petra – 16
    8. Aleksandra – 17

  8. speed is so fucking stupid… messes up the whole competition. if the rank would be best time out of x trys wins and the 2vs2 would be just for fun display it would make sense but like this its just garbage.

  9. 野中さんのファンです。女性としてとても魅力的です。オリンピック、第二位で是非とも選ばれてほしいです。

  10. Ai Mori scoring lower than Aleksandra Miroslaw overall proves that the multiplicative scoring is flawed. 2nd place is the most unfairly scored in this system.
    And there's so much luck of the draw in the speed competition, which compounds the problem.

  11. Is is true Ai Mora would've won the gold had she zoned W3? There was time left, she could've just reached and held it but went for the "dyno"? (forgive me, I love watching but don't know all the definitions.)If so, THAT is just brutal for her.

  12. Just realizing no separate speed, boulder, & live comps at 2020 Olys. Thought there would be AND a combined too. Rules is rules but this is REALLY going to cause heartbreak for some JPN & SLO climbers. Wonder if the IOC could've reserved a couple "At Large" slots to prevent.
    Is what it is but REALLY unfortunate some VERY deserving athletes shut out.

  13. And above all, a climber who hardly does 8a (can she?) would take the place of Miho or Ai Mori.
    Congrats IFSC, you ashame climbers in order to feed your CEOs in the olympic comitee

  14. So the 4th classified couldnt clip the 3rd quickdraw nor secure one single boulder zone and she already has a spot to go to Tokyo next year.
    Dont you see how uselees this format is?

  15. Congrats (again) to boulder routesetters.
    It s not easy to make thesame mistake round after round, but that s what happens when you set thinking on TV rather than climbers.
    Gonna watch some REAL climbing on real climbing youtube channels

  16. The point and scoring system works well for combined climbing, i hope in the Olympics they have similar format as the World Championship with 4 discipline events (Speed, Lead, Boulder and combined) with good structure to the events to allow the athletes rest days between each round. they have 2 weeks so should be possible to spread it over the whole Olympics.

  17. Disappointed in the routesetting. Ai deserved a top in each of those boulders. She read them all correctly and displayed every necessary skill.
    EDIT: just watched her lead climb. "much to the ire of the routesetters" hahaha

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